Ryokan Tanabe

A ryokan is a traditional country inn. We had the pleasure of three nights at the Ryokan Tanabe in the center of Takayama. The accommodations are simple and authentic old Japanese lodgings with about 25 rooms. The rooms have tatami mat flooring and the doors are sliding paper paneled screens. Furnishings are basic and modest.

The inn has two onsens (public baths), one for each sex. You arrive at the onsen from your room in a kimono, slippers (provided) and little else. You thoroughly wash yourself in a public space, from bamboo pails beside the bath. You make an extra effort to assure others that you are very clean. Then you enter the bath that is tepid, but not hot, and soak. There are two rules: very clean and very naked. 

The staff, who speak no English but are very perceptive to your needs, are warm, gentle and consummate professionals. In a flurry at 7:30 in the morning, they enter your room, stow your bedding in a nearby closet and serve a traditional Japanese breakfast as you sit cross legged on the tatami. An hour later, staff return and within 2 minutes, breakfast is cleared and the room straightened for the day.

At 7:30 in the evening, they come back in and quickly lay out your bedding on the floor. The pillows are small cotton cases stuffed with soba (buckwheat) and very comfortable. I have a request for two on my Christmas list. I love them.

If you are ever going to stay in Takayama, Ryokan Tanabe is a must. 5  Stars.